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A Color Specialist

Styling Professional based in California who excels at platinum tones. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and renowned personalities.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much stress a regular bath towel can do, notably with lightened or dyed strands. A simple switch can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use during washing. It safeguards your strands while detangling and helps maintain the integrity of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A top-tier thermal appliance – featuring innovative technology, with smart temperature control. Silver and light-coloured hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the correct device.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

At-home lightening. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the reality is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people severely damage their locks, snap their strands or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I also don’t recommend keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause lasting harm or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. Certain clients overapply toning shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is using hot tools sans safeguard. In cases where you employ hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I often suggest scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps eliminate impurities and allows solutions to be more efficient. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and dietary insufficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be beneficial. Still, my advice is to getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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Anabel Kingsley

Follicle Expert and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have see-through sections. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had significant shedding – and also currently as I’m going through some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the primary purpose of washing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If oils are left on your scalp, they decompose and cause irritation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will resolve on its own. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus